October 2013 -

Fringe-ovation on the runway: New York, Milan, Paris

October 9, 2013April 11, 2017
by Jana Platina Phipps

Welcome back! So it’s been a busy Fall with all the Fall 2013 fashion shows in New York, Milan and Paris. Going to a fashion show is an exhilaration, everyone pumped up with the drama. I’ve only been to New York shows and the rest I view from afar, online, with bloodshot eyes late into the night. I’ve scoured the collections to give you some trimming highlights and thank my trim scouts for uncovering some hidden gems I missed.

TWISTED CORD MASTERY

Exquisite embroidery with twisted cording debuted at Sass & Bide. Designers Heidi Middleton and Sarah-Jane Clarke categorize their collection as “considered clash—a polished confusion.”

Massimo Giorgetti uses the technique with a Hawaiian vibe. MSGM is a brand on the rise and one to watch. I bet this skirt weights at least five pounds!

If you follow me on facebook you know I post “Fab Fringe Friday” weekly. There seems to be endless fodder for how fringe is being used in the design community. But for 2014, there is some innovation in application.

FRINGE-OVATION

Max Azaria uses fringe to color block. That’s double-dipping in trends!

3.1 Philip Lim also color blocks, but in a more haphazard, organic way. Anna Sui and the Rodarte sisters use fringe for a peek-a-boo effect adorning their “hurpie” (hippie+urban) sirens.

My fashion crush this season is on Manish Arora who also prides himself on cultural mash-up. Called “Josephine Baker at a rave,” his show incorporated intricate beading and passementerie crafted in India in neon colors a la Japanese anime art.

This Calvin Klein dress verges on overdose. But the interesting thing about these gowns is that the fringe yarns are draped like fabric outlining the silhouette. It reminds me of Austrian shades in silk organza. Marchesa is a master of femininity and this season designer Georgina Chapman shares, “I used to have a curiosity cabinet when I was a kid, and the whole idea here was taking different elements and braiding them together into one thing.” I’m on my chair cheering a fringe-ovation for Marchesa!

But here’s how the Italians do it….

Magnifico Roberto Cavalli!

Missoni too with masterful draping.

Back in BLACK

In contrast to these sexy Cavalli numbers, what are these Converse/VANs hybrids? I’m addicted to black passementerie and appliqué but oyvay! I think that was Marc Jacobs’ only misstep because he made me fall in love with BLACK again. His trimmings on these graphic prints were so modern and global looking, I want to black tassel-fy my entire wardrobe.

And speaking of which, the next time you head out the door in jeans, consider the glam effect of some black bling. Marc nailed it in for Louis Vuitton in Paris for his farewell show. He has now left to focus on his rumored IPO. And since Michael Kors’ stock tripled since it’s initial offering in 2011, aside all the creative pageantry, fashion is no folly.